Metal Pad Modification | _ter.Metalpad | Rufus Cubed Productions

Arcade Style DDR Control Box

For Playstation - Playstation 2 - Homepads/Cobalt Flux units
Design and Guide by _ter
Additional photos by tr4il

Sinistar has created an advanced version of this project for an Xbox/Cobalt Flux combination.
Additionally he has posted a power modification which allow the arcade buttons to light up.
You can find his site at http://www.fithlan.com/ddr/cbox1.html


Site Updated 10/6/2004
-Added/Fixed Links

Site Updated 1/9/2003
-Updated instructions.
-Added new pictures by tr4il

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Alright, below are listed the basics of creating an Arcade Style Control box for your DDRHomepad platform. Keep in mind this guide assumes that you have at least some semblance of intelligence and intuition. It is not a plug and play operation. It is a bit pricey. If you have a reasonable question, ask it. If the whole darn thing confuses you, you may not want to consider making one.

That being said, let's move on to ...

TerTerBox™ Construction



First, is the parts list:

Project Enclosure - 7x5x3"
$5.99
Radio Shack Catalog Number: 270-1807 

Dual-Row Barrier Strip-8 Position
$2.39
Radio Shack Catalog Number: 274-670 

Stranded Wire 
~$5 
Radio Shack Catalog Number: 278-1218
I used CAT5 and untwisted pieces from the inside to keep the colours consistent with the cables coming from the pad. It worked well enough (and cost only 30 cents), but can be weak after you strip the ends. Be careful not to wiggle too much or it will break (which is why stranded wire is better).

Spade Terminals - Optional
$1.69
Radio Shack Catalog Number: 64-3125
Used to connect the wires to the Barrier strip.

Quick Disconnects
These are used on the ends of the wire to slide onto the connectors of the pushbuttons.  

For the Illuminated Pushbuttons: 1/4"(.25")
For the Regular Pushbuttons: 3/16" (.187")

You will need two for each button. (This cost me about 3 bucks at radio shack)



Triangle Low Profile Illuminated Pushbutton, Yellow
2 x $ 6.45 
Happ Controls part #71-0004-T15

Rectangular Low Profile Illuminated Pushbutton, Green
1 x $ 6.45
Happ Controls part #57-0004-53

White Pushbutton with Horizontal Microswitch
1 x $ 1.75
Happ Controls part #58-9111-L

Black Pushbutton with Horizontal Microswitch
1 x $ 1.75
Happ Controls part #58-9166-L

Controller, if you wish to include it in the price. I paid $10.00 for a "performance" controller at Toys'r'us.
You can get many good controllers suitable for this task on the used shelf at Gamestop, Electronics Boutique, Software Etc, or any other Video Game Retailer. I found this exact controller used at EB for $4.99.

Total cost of TerTerBox - Approx. $44.23 This price doesn't include the optional D-sub connector, which we'll get to later. (It only adds like 6 bucks to the price anyway, and is unnecessary, but helpful)

NECESSARY TOOLS
-Soldering Iron
  Rosin Core Solder
-Drill
  1" Wood Boring Drill Bit
  1 1/8" Wood Boring Drill Bit
-Ruler
-Wire Stripper (not necessary, but helpful)
-Needlenose Pliers
-Scissors
-Utility Knife (X-acto Knife)
-Small and large phillips and flathead screwdrivers
-Super Glue
-Masking or Electical Tape


I'll apologize now as I know I'm not gifted with writing these guides for all levels of users. Please bear with me.

Unfortunately I don't have any pictures of the initial construction of the box, however, DDRFreak.com member tr4il has graciously supplied us with pictures of the construction of his replica. So expect the pictures to look a little different between the two projects.

Getting Started
First thing you'll want to do is drill the holes in the project enclosure. For the Illuminated pushbuttons, we will be using the 1" wood-boring drill bit. These holes will be drilled in the large 7" x 5" side of the box itself, not the lid.

Before drilling, Mark the center of the box with a gash using your utility knife. This diagram shows how you should mark the box:



You will want to drill the center hole first. The Rectangle Pushbutton has two pegs on the left and right side of the hole that keep it properly aligned. You need to drill holes just to the sides of the center hole for these pegs. Refer to the button itself for measurements, and use a 1/4" or so drill bit (large enough for the pegs to fit) Update: tr4il states that a 11/64" drill bit is PERFECT for the rectangle button's pegs.

For the Start/Select buttons, I placed one on either side of the box, on the 3" x 5" panels towards the front(bottom) of the box. The standard pushbuttons use a 1 1/8" bore, but you could get away with using a 1" bit and sanding the hole larger until it fits.



Each button has a ring which screws onto the back, and a switch, which attaches to the bottom. You will need to play with the switch to understand how it attaches/detaches from the button. It's too funky of a mechanism to explain here.



The switch for the illuminated pushbuttons is attached to a lighting mechanism, which is very difficult to insert/remove from the housing. Remove the ring and the switch/light from the rectangle, and insert the button into the center hole. Make sure you have properly drilled the side holes and that the pegs on the button fully enter the housing. Once the button is flat and even, place the securing ring on the back and tighten with your fingers, it shouldn't take much more than that to keep it secure. Re-insert the switch/light into the back of the button and push until it pops into place. You do not really need to worry about the direction of the connectors on this button's switch, but you will need to pay attention with the triangles.



You'll want to measure for yourself where to place the left/right arrows so they look to be lined up properly: I don't have the exact measurements. Mark the center point where they look properly aligned and drill the 1" holes (they should still be 2.5" from the top and bottom). Insert the triangle buttons. These do not have alignment pegs, so you will need to align them visually before tightening their backing ring. Once tight, double check the surface of the buttons to make sure they look straight and authentic to the arcade machine. Then insert the switch/lights so their circuits are pointing in the directions pictured above. It's important that they face towards the inside at an angle. Once inserted, place the backing ring on (don't tighten yet) and then click the switch into place. Align the angle of the circuit as below/above:



With the plug ends facing inward, but allowing enough room for the wires that will be connected later to clear the other button. Repeat the above steps, symetrically, on the other side for the other button. Once all buttons are secured in place, we move on to:

Wiring the Controller/PCB

Well, since you're making this for a homepad anyway, you should already have a wired and soldered controller, but we'll be making a couple adjustments. First, you controller must be drilled and wired from the back. (refer to http://www.geocities.com/ddrhomepad/controller.html for the proceedure) Second, you must have drilled/wired/soldered Up, Down, Left, Right, Start, Select, and "O". We need about 6 inch wires coming off the controller for each button. The shoulder buttons need to be carefully removed from the main circuit board. Cutting or snapping them off should pose no problem so long as their connection does not short in the process. Lastly, any protruding objects on the front of the face of the PCB need to be bent down or snipped, so the surface is flat.

Once those items are taken care of, take a look at the diagram below.



Cut a piece of foam core (you should have some left over from building the pad, yes?) to the size and shape of the PCB. Place the PCB face down on this foam core, and secure them togeather with strips of masking tape, reaching all the way around the controller, foam core, and back onto itself.


(I used cardboard wrapped in anti-static plastic instead of foam core in case you're wondering)

Next, super glue the PCB/Foam Core and the Barrier strip to the inside lid of the project enclosure according to the diagram above. Make sure that the playstation controller's cable is facing out. Next, loosen the inside layer of barrier strip screws and secure each wire from the controller to the spot indexed in the diagram by placing the wire under the screw and tightning it to secure the connection. Once all wires have been secured to the barrier strip, we can move on.



Using the wire and the slide-on connectors purchased for the push buttons, we're going to create a few wires to connect to the buttons.

Create 5 strands of wire 10 inches long. Strip one end and crimp or solder one of the connectors to that end. (Remember, the illuminated buttons and the pushbuttons are different sizes, so there will be 3 with the larger connector and 2 with the smaller) Next, using the picture above as the general idea, create a series of one cable with connectors every 3 or 5 inches. It should be laid out like this:

10 inches of wire - small connector - 5 inches of wire - large connector - 3 inches of wire - large connector - 3 inches of wire - large connector - 5 inches of wire - small connector. This will function as the ground for all buttons.



This picture shows how each button will be wired. Carefully slide on each wire for Left, Right, "O", Select , and Start (below). Check their length to the Barrier strip and trim them accordingly. Strip the ends and secure them into the corresponding terminal on the barrier strip.



Then, connect the ground terminals in tandem, starting with select, then going to left, "O", right, and finally start. Trim, strip, and secure the ground wire to the barrier strip.



You will have arrived just about at this point. Almost done :D

Lastly, use a dremmel or your utility knife to cut a small hole where the playstation cable extends from the PCB to allow the cable to pass through. You should try to wedge the little "Flexing" rubber piece in this hole to protect the PCB from tugging.



For the cable from your pad:

Easier Way
Cut a hole in the front of the box at the base to allow your telephone/Cat5 cable to pass through. Separate the wires, strip the ends, and secure them to the corresponding terminals on the barrier strip. Use the rubber cut from the end of the cable to make sure where the cable enters the hole is tight, to prevent tugging on the circuits. The barrier strip is actually there to prevent tugging on sensitive soldering points, but no use risking it. Test the box at this time.

Difficult Way


Purchase the following from Radio Shack:
9-Position Metal D-Sub Metal Hoods for 9-Pin and D-Sub Connectors
$2.49 
Catalog Number: 276-1508 

9-Position Male Crimp D-Sub Connector
$1.49 
Catalog Number: 276-1427 

9-Position Female Crimp D-Sub Connector
$1.49 
Catalog Number: 276-1428


I won't go in depth into it's installation, but it's pretty much as simple as:

Cut a hole to accomate the back of the male connector.
Place the connector in the hole
Drill 1/16" holes in either side.
Find and use 1/16 screws to secure the faceplate.
Use five 10" wires and crimp them to 5 of the pins.
Place the faceplate in the housing and screw it tightly.
Check the length of the wires, trim, strip, and secure to the Barrier strip. TAKE NOTE AS TO WHAT PINS ARE PERFORMING WHAT FUNCTION.
Crimp the wires on the cable from the pad to the female connector, using the same pins as the male connector (flipped horizontally, of course).
Secure the device with the Metal Hood.
Place the new plug from the pad into the terminal on the box, and test it's functionality.

PIN CONFIGURATION FOR COBALT FLUX UNITS:
1 Ground
2 Up
3 Down
4 Left
5 Right
6 X
7 O
8 Select
9 Start


Finishing Up
Place the back on the box, and secure all four screws. Again checking to make sure that the cable to the playstation is snug in it's escape hole to prevent internal damage. Hook up and test the device. If not operating properly, check to make sure that all slide/crimp connectors are secured properly and that the wire inside the slide/crimp connector is making a good, stripped connection to the connector itself. Additionally make sure that no stripped wires/connectors are touching each other or causing a short.

Finally, if you create one, be sure to post pictures and tell me how it went. Suggestions are welcome.


My Arcade Box, the Prototype


Virtually identical TerTerBox by tr4il. Very well done and shows
the point that this project is indeed reproducible with these instructions.
Thanks to tr4il again for the additional photos of construcion.

Resources
http://www.geocities.com/ddrhomepad - The project this is an extension of.
http://www.happcontrols.com - For the Pushbuttons.
http://www.radioshack.com - For everything else.
http://wrongcrowd.com/arcade/ - For the idea.
http://www.fithlan.com/ddr/cbox1.html - For Xbox / To make the lights light up.

Good luck,

_ter
on the ddrfreak.com forums as _ter
Message me with any questions you may have.

If this guide helped you out and you feel like
contributing to my projects you can do so below:

Metal Pad Modification | _ter.Metalpad | Rufus Cubed Productions

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